Review: Cypher Logic Approach Shoes

Photo by Nikki Smith

“Let’s climb one more tower.” My feet and forearms ached after climbing in the cold desert for days, but my stoke told me to say yes. We drove to Arches National Park, and sized up our objective:  The Pickle. The tower is almost a running joke at this point with my friends, a route climbed when the crew is exhausted, short on time, or struggling after partying too hard. A quick scramble and a single aid pitch is all it takes to summit this short, fun spire on the boundaries of the park.

My friend Jonas and I made quick work of the route--a technical jaunt rather than a performance endeavor--and I jugged up wearing my Cypher Logic approach shoes, grateful to be out of my regular tight climbing shoes for a while. We blasted some Kendrick Lamar while our friend and photographer, Alex followed us to the summit, where we took in the great views of the surrounding desert and celebrated.

Summit of the Pickle.

Being an all-around climber means that I need to have versatile shoes in my toolkit for various climbing disciplines. I split my time between sport and trad climbing, and the routes I select often have technical or slabby approaches that require a sticky-rubbered shoe. As a routesetter, I also spend a lot of time hanging in the gym creating climbs; it’s much more comfortable to set in approach shoes rather than regular climbing shoes. That way I get the benefit of a snug fit and sticky toe, without the pain of wearing performance shoes for hours. The Cypher Logic is my go-to for all of these situations.

Base of a route in Squamish.

I’ve taken the Logic to Red Rock in Nevada, El Potrero Chico in Mexico, Squamish in Canada, and all over the rest of the American West. These shoes get thrown in my pack on every climbing trip, and I even end up choosing the Logics for most desert hikes and slot canyons since it grips so well with its Vibram Idrogrip rubber and Boulder Dot tread pattern. Plus, they’re low profile enough that I can throw on a pair of jeans and still feel like they’re fashionable with my in-town outfits if I run to dinner after climbing.

Approach in the desert.

They’ve proved to be durable and dependable. My first pair lasted through a few years of constant climbing, routesetting in the gym, aid/bigwalling in Zion, approaches through cactus and talus in Indian Creek, and more. I’ve led up to 5.9 in them, and have been impressed with the edging capability. The beefy laces and eyelets have also stayed totally intact and functional, which has not been the case for comparable approach shoes I’ve tried from other companies. The leather and canvas upper has held up to extensive abrasion and use with no holes and no blowouts.

Scouting climbs in Indian Creek.

After three ankle and foot surgeries, I was worried if they’d still fit, but I was pleasantly surprised that they offer me just enough support and cushion to be pain-free on all of my trips. Even on steep sandstone slabs in the rain (one of the worst slick situations that I’ve been stuck in after retreating in a storm), they gave me the confidence to move quickly and carefully over exposed and fourth class terrain. They’re also lightweight enough to throw on the back of my harness or into a multi-pitch pack when I know I’ll have to navigate a walk-off after a big climb, which is a huge plus.

I will continue to reach for the Cypher Logic as my number one approach shoe, aid shoe, and routesetting shoe!

Jugging on the Pickle.

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