We asked our Sales Rep, Evan Watts, his thoughts on the new Mydas Ultra Quickdraws after a summer climbing with them. We knew he'd be the right person for the job! He has been climbing for 7 years, and although ice climbing is up there on his favorite kinds of climbing, adventure climbing takes the top spot. He spent his summer climbing in the Tetons, the Winds, and in the Sierras putting the Mydas quickdraws to the test.
The Mydas Ultra quickdraws are great for the climber looking to save weight. These probably aren’t going to be the set you rock up to “the proj” with and decide to launch a series of whippers on to, unless you need to go ultralight for the send. The thinner sling is perfectly strong, but just not quite ergonomic enough for fancy sport climbers. Where these carabiners will shine is for the trad/alpine climbers looking to take the weight off their backs on long approaches, but still have a great quickdraw to use on route.
Apart from the ultralight weight of the Mydas Ultra carabiner (only 24 grams!) the quickdraws come in multiple lengths to fit many needs. If you just need pure attachment to the wall, the 11cm length quickdraw length is going to be your bread and butter. But for those pitches when the rope drag gets bad, or maybe has a deep cam placement that could walk itself too far, you might want the 16cm or 20cm quickdraws to help prevent those annoyances. And of course, the alpine climber’s true best friend, a 60cm length “runner” version is available as well to really ensure you won’t get bogged down on your adventure climbs.
Outside of the multiple length options, the Mydas Ultra carabiner itself is a real star. There is a few small bumps on the back of the spine to help prevent the carabiner from slipping too much while you are clipping it. The carabiners come in the full range of colors to fit whatever gear you need to match it to. The gate opens more than wide enough to accommodate whatever you need to clip it through, while the overall small size of the carabiner ensures that you will be able to sneak it into those tricky sideways pitons or that fixed cam whose loop is buried deep in the crack.
Overall, this is a great quickdraw option for those looking to go light. They aren’t going to beat out the super-ergonomic carabiners with extra wide slings at the sport crag, but for those looking for a full range of length and color options and prioritize weight above all else these will be an amazing option at a competitive price.
Shop the Cypher Mydas Ultra Quickdraws here!