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Alan Rousseau | Alpine Climber

Shingo Shingo

Hometown: Salt Lake City, UT

Core Activity: IFMGA/UIAGM Certified Guide


Grivel, Beal, Cilo Gear, Adidas


As a IFMGA mountain guide, Alan Rousseau has landed a profession that he is passionate about, a profession that has taken him to amazing ranges around the world. After spending his childhood in New England, Alan moved to Utah in 2004 where he lives with his wife and learned to climb. Initially, Alan picked up climbing as a secondary activity in an effort to take his skiing and snowboarding further up into the mountains. But the more he did it, the more he found passion in climbing impressive lines and summiting awe-inspiring peaks. Aside from his guiding trips, Alan has also received grant funding for five expeditions attempting first ascents in the Himalayas.

Mountain Resume:

  • First Ascent of ‘Ruth Gorge Grinder’ East Face Mount Dickey Ruth Gorge, AK. 5000’ VI M7 AI6+ April 2019
  • First Ascent of Rungofarka (6495M) Via North Ridge 4000’ VI M6 AI4+ A0 (five days on route) In Zanskar range Kashmir, India October 2017
  • First Ascent of Langmoche Ri peak Via NW Ridge (6611m) 2500’ V 80 degrees in the Rolwaling Himal of Nepal (8 days B.C. to B.C.) November 2012
  • First Ascent of the West face of Pachermo peak (6275m) V 4000' M5 AI4 in the Rolwaling Himal of Nepal October 2014
  • 2 time recipient of the AAC cutting edge award
  • 2 time recipient of the Copp-Dash inspire award
  • Mugs Stump award recipient
  • First ascents of mixed routes to M10
  • IFMGA/UIAGM Certified Guide

Equipment & Nutrition for Modern Alpine Climbing

When climbing in Alpine style most discussion and debate are focused on the bivouac strategy. Common questions are: Do you plan to sleep? Do you plan to lie down or sit on a pack? Wear puffy pants or use a sleeping bag? Should we share a sleeping bag? Tent or no tent? Generally the food and nutrition conversation gets wrapped up in this, because your bivy strategy generally determines how long you plan to be on route for. Liberty Mountain distributes a number of products that have facilitated my success and helped me answer many of these questions climbing around the world. The convenience of being able to get all these products from one source is unparalleled in my opinion.

Favorite Gear Picks

G20 Plus Cramp-O-Matic

Grivel Tech Machines

Grivel Plume Twin Gate Carabiner

Beal Joker

Beal Ghost Harness